Liquorice root, angelica stems, and sweet cicely have long been used—and are still occasionally used today—to reduce the tartness of rhubarb stems. When rhubarb first became part of the British diet, people turned to other readily available plants to enhance its sweetness.
Liquorice, like rhubarb, boasts a rich medicinal history and shares a notable connection to Yorkshire. The town of Pontefract is famously known as the home of liquorice in England. According to legend, monks from Spain introduced liquorice to the region, which may explain its local nickname, “Spanish.” During medieval times, Pontefract housed two religious institutions: St. John’s Priory, a Cluniac Monastery near All Saints Church, and St. Richard’s Dominican Friary (known as the Black Friars for their dark habits) in the Friarwood Valley. Monks likely cultivated liquorice for its medicinal properties, using it to treat various ailments.
George Dunhill is credited with transforming liquorice from a medicinal root into a sweet treat by adding sugar. He is believed to have pioneered the commercial production and marketing of the iconic Pontefract Cake, a delicacy still enjoyed today. Liquorice was grown commercially in Pontefract for its roots from the 1500s until the 1970s.
Beyond confections, liquorice has a longstanding history in beverages. Brewers have traditionally used liquorice to add depth of color and flavor to ales such as stouts and porters. It has also been a popular ingredient in soft drinks and cordials.
At the new Dunoon Goes POP garden, we are cultivating liquorice. This deep-rooted plant will be brought under cover during the winter to ensure its successful growth.
To learn more about Pontefract’s fascinating history with liquorice, be sure to visit the Pontefract Museum, where you can explore exhibits dedicated to this unique local heritage.
Image: Liquorice cultivation in Pontefract (C) Wakefield Museums and is shared under a Creative Commons license.